ClimateTriac Controller Ready-made project for smart heating

One of my friends suggested that I create a boxed solution for the heating system. First of all, of course, we are talking about getting a universal controller, like a smart socket, for remote control of the heater based on the Climate project.

It is clear that using regular smart sockets on a permanent basis is extremely dangerous. But on the other hand, there is no desire to use some unsightly blocks from distribution boxes, which also require additional modernization.

Well, this is a completely reasonable desire. Therefore, I decided to add another edition of the project - ClimateTriac , in which I decided to assemble a kind of universal board for working with a heater, fan and humidifier. I think this edition will be of interest to those who would like to make a series of universal blocks for themselves or for their clients.

Let's see what we got. This is what the whole unit looks like assembled. It has a special metal case, made specifically for this edition. It is supplied without cords, because they can be of different lengths. Instead, the unit provides standard IEC power connectors. That is, if I want to plug it into a socket, I can use a known cable of the length I need. Or, if this unit is connected via a home wiring cable, then in this case it can be done via a detachable plug. Like this.

As for the controlled devices, similar IEC output connectors are provided for them, which are located on the left and right sides. You can connect a heater with a power of up to 2 kW to them, as well as a humidifier with a power of up to 200 W.

There can be one or more heaters. For example, two heaters of one kilowatt each. You can insert the appropriate adapter into this connector. In this case, you can connect any heater with a standard plug. Or you can buy a ceramic or heating element heater and again connect it yourself using this "IEC" plug.

There are no more high-voltage connectors, and I will consider others. On the left side, the heater temperature sensor is connected. Like this. Then, it will need to be secured to the heater.

On the right side there are two other similar connectors. The first one is for connecting the temperature and humidity sensor. The second connector is for the fan. Yes, in this version of the climate project, I decided to use a standard four-pin computer fan. If you choose a good fan, for example, like this one with quiet bearings, then it will be enough to ventilate a room of twenty square meters. Thanks to the PWM controller built into the unit, you can control the speed of this fan, which is especially important in bedrooms. By adjusting the fan speed, you can maintain the flow of fresh air and reduce its noise.

These are all connected devices and sensors. In addition, the case has a switch, a Wi-Fi antenna, a number of LEDs displaying the status and, of course, a neat little cooler that will help prevent the unit from overheating. By the way, the unit itself has such a design that it is convenient and safe to hang it on the wall, while at the bottom there is an invisible ventilation gap for air flow and effective cooling even when the cooler is not working.

What else can be said about this unit? First of all, it is extremely safe. To control powerful loads, such as a heater, you need to be especially careful, as this is a fire hazard. That is why I often talk about the unsuitability of smart plastic sockets with a miniature electromechanical relay for these purposes. Yes, they can turn on the heater for a while, but they cannot be used as a full-fledged system for heating control.

This unit has multi-stage protection. First of all, it is a metal case, which better protects the electrics from surrounding objects. Secondly, a special safety relay, which will de-energize all devices if something goes wrong (this is how it looks on the board).

This is a high-quality, reliable relay that is designed for long-term operation with high current.

And thirdly, the design of the unit provides for forced cooling. For this purpose, the unit has a built-in temperature sensor and a mini-cooler.

Another important advantage of this unit compared to the same typical smart socket is the noiseless operation, thanks to the solid-state relay based on the thyristor. This is a very important point, which for some reason receives little attention.

It is important to understand that in order for the room to have a comfortable temperature, the heater should not just be turned on once. There is a concept of inertia, when it takes some time for it to heat up and then when it cools down. Therefore, the heater relay should work silently and very often, turning on the heater for a few seconds and every minute. It is then that you can achieve the effect of that special comfort, when it is not stuffy from overheated air and there is no cold due to constant temperature fluctuations.

The next important advantage, I believe, is that the unit combines the functions of controlling the exhaust fan and humidifier. Temperature and humidity are almost inseparable indicators of comfort in the room. Therefore, it is necessary to control not only the heater, which can heat the room, but also increase the humidity. This excess moisture must be removed. Or, conversely, when the heater reaches the specified power and works for a long time, it begins to dry out the air greatly, and in this case, it will be necessary to turn on the humidifier.

As for the appearance of this unit, its ergonomics, it would be incorrect for me to judge this, and I will leave this question to your discretion. But in any case, it seems more attractive to me than a typical distribution box.

In conclusion, I will of course make a small technical review of this unit by disassembling it. As you can see, the unit body consists of four parts.

This is the cover that contains the power connector and power switch. The cooling fan is located here, and the antenna is on top.

These are two panels with connectors for devices and sensors. There is also a wall mount.

And of course the case base and its frame. Actually, the ClimateTriac board is attached to it. There is a small hole at the back, this is the standard Reset button for initializing the unit by the user.

I'll remove the board and examine it in more detail. This is a 12-volt power supply, followed by a 5-volt stabilizer. The ESP chip itself with a connection for an external antenna. This is a solid-state relay based on a triac with a good radiator for a heater. Not far from it are two more relays. The first is a general safety relay and next to it is a second solid-state relay for a humidifier.

As usual, you can find more information about the board and its other components on the SmartESP website in the Projects, Climate Control, ClimateTriac edition section. The schematic diagram and materials required for assembly are also presented here.